You sure that’s the correct connector, John? Some look similar but aren’t a great fit, or have to be modified to work.
The connector on THIS cable I know works.
I knew your cable works since there is a youbute video on that cable. but it is not available on ebay. i bought NNTN5405. it looks like correct connector. actually, there are two, and i bought both. one question, do you think NNTN6559A or my NNTN5405A can substitude DTR program cable? I will give it try once i receive it. I could not figure out reason why it does not work. I just paid $25 to get program cable, but if NNTN5405A works, it is a much cheap substitute.
Doubtful, but you let us know!
for those who have built their own flash cable, I have a question. I know pin 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 15 are used to wire to black, black, green, white, red, and 12 v wire. questions.
- Are the color codes for any USB cable the same? I use NNTN5405 (I will receive tomorrow), I wonder it has the same wire color as NNTN6559. My gut feeling is YES. USB has 4 pins and a shield. Can anyone use multimeter to check which wire is hooked to which pin?
- does NNTN6559 has wire connect to pin 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 15? if so, there is no need to open the 17-pin connector (I think it will get messy). I can simply cut open the wire and feed 12 v to the wire linked to pin 15. If all other pins are connected to the correct colored wire, my job is done.
- the programming cable is a straight through wiring. If I know the pin layout with the that of the USB pin, I could wire them too.
ask a stupid question, how to open the housing of the DTR connector? Here is what I plan to do:
- open the DTR connector housing
- disconnect shield to the connector hook
- connect shield to pin 15
- open the cable in the middle, strip out some shielding, and tap my 12 V to the shield to the DTR.
Tell me if this will work or not?
Hi, Report back. I bought Motorola NNTN5405 cable from eBay. It has a center housing on the cable for charging. Finally made it work, but here is the lesson.
-
I check the pins in NNTN5405 as follows:
USB ground wire is to pin 17, USB shield wire to shield.
Two wires from charger housing are to pin 3 and 17 respectively.
Green, red and white wires are on the correct pins already.
It can not be used for programming. -
I rewired pin 1 & 3 to ground, pin 15 to 12 volt per instruction here.
It does not work. Flash tool can not recognize it as USB regardless how I do. -
I reverted what I did back to original state (0), and moved the wire from charging housing from pin 3 to pin 15.
Yeah. it works now. I successfully flashed all my DTRs on window 10. I have to change compatibility on computer setting per flash guide for Window 7.
Lesson learnt: whenever you get a proper cable, simply add 12 volts onto pin 15, and do not rearrange any other wiring.
Oh. Since all of my radios have been flashed, this cable is of no use for me. Anyone wants it? I will sell it for the cost. It costs me two nights figure out how to build it. Maybe $15 + $10 (USPS priority) = $25 within US? I appreciate if you want to pay me more :-). 12v power supply is not included, just modified cable only. Use it at your own risk. I am not responsible for any damage or loss incurred.
Well done, John!
Does the NNTN5405 cable fit and lock perfectly to the DTR without modification?
That is correct. The connector on NNTN5405 is exactly the same as the one comes with DTR. Also, since NNTN5405 has a charging housing on the cable, I believe you could hide your DC-DC converter inside to make cable look prettier. NNTN5405 has 3 black wires (1 to shield, 1 connects pin 17 to USB ground, another 1 connects pin 17 to shield black wire), 2 extra wires for charging housing (1 to pin 17 ground, 1 to pin 3 for 5v external power). In another word, if you ground pin 17 and put 5v on pin 3, radio is in charging mode. This setting is consistent with OEM charging cable. OEM charging cable (that is hooked to charging cradle) has only two pins at pin 3 & 17. So I really am puzzled by why you set ground at pin 1 and 3, but not 17.
One thing I have to point out is that if USB does not show up on the flash software window, disconnecting DTR and reconnecting DTR to the cable will bring up USB to the flash window.
Andy, from the photo, how come i have the feeling that you grounded at pin 2, not pin 1 or 3? I start to feel that pin 2 & pin 17 are both for ground since pin 2 & 17 are connected for ground in NNTN5405 charging house.
All the answers you seek are in this thread, including a very nice schematic that an enthusiast was very kind to post here.
Hi, Andy, what I am saying is that schematic is not working in my case. I use cable NNTN5405. Initially I followed the schematic (pin 1&3 to ground, pin 15 to 12v), but it did not work. Then I kept the original wire layout in NNTN5405 (pin 17 to ground, pin 1 & 3 unused) and just added 12 V on pin 15 and it works.
Huh! That’s strange. Several have been made with the pinout as per this thread with no connection on pin 17 and work fine. Can’t say why your experience was different.
An additional thanks for all the good info in this thread.
Well done gentlemen
I will try and make my own cable, just picked up 8 DTR650’s.
I’m guessing that I’m lucky but I managed to flash two DTR550’s and one DTR650 before the USB cable “melted”. I followed the instructions to hooked up 12 volts with positive to pin 15 and negative to both pins 1 and 3. I could smell something burning but wasn’t sure WTH was going on. The radios were all left OFF when I went to flash them and the batteries were in the radios too. Any guess to what is going on here? Thankfully I have another USB to iDEN cable. It got really hot by pins 1 and 3… you can see the bulge in the photo.
Well, there’s videos and schematics on here, with really good instructions… Make sure you download all the PDF’s and watch all the videos.
Maybe a couple of pins got shorted? Have a look with a magnifying glass. Maybe your 12v supply wasn’t actually 12v?
Okay I think I know whats going on. I found the posts on how you installed an in-line DC-DC converter and “cut off” the 5V supplied from the USB side. I bet I was causing some sort of short with both 12V and 5V going into this thing; so basically I should have isolated the USB +5V by either installing a switch OR just a male/female connector so I can disconnect it. Makes more sense now.
Edit: after further review of the schematic, I’m not sure. I measured my 12V power supply and it is outputting 15V; that isn’t rare for these unregulated wall warts. I’m not sure but I have another USB cable and I will try again but install a DC-DC converter.